I don’t know about you but we are always on the look out for new spots for cheeky suppers with family and friends. But there is a checklist; good food (of course); good atmosphere (a little atmosphere goes a long way); varied menu (we have some fussy-eaters of all ages to please); lack of pretence (no delusions of grandeur, thank you); friendly people (we like a chat). So, we headed into the car after a busy week at work/school to Malpas…
We had a table booked early doors, but the bar area was already full of the murmur of voices winding down for the weekend. Warmly welcomed we were shown to our table one of the gorgeous picture windows, with views over the courtyard seating area, roaring fire and twinkling lights.
After the obligatory Friday night gin and tonic, it was time to decide on the food (interspersed with incongruous peering at fellow diners food as it passed us by). There’s a wide range of small plates and nibbles to choose from, a mix of great pub classics that you would expect alongside some you perhaps would not. The scotch egg starter looked great, as did The Lion’s 8oz beef burger and after lengthly discussion with our host Hope, we were decided.
To begin we chose the Garlic flatbread liberally topped with cheese, and corn on the cob from the kid’s menu, always a winner for our five-year-old, however many napkins we try to cover her up with!
To follow, it was Game Pie, made in-house by the pie-man (sorry, we didn’t ask your real name, but you will forever be known as Pie-kwando, thanks to Hope), and served with mash, braised red cabbage and green peppecorn jus. Husband loves a good pie and it was devoured with the associated ‘that was a good pie’ noises. Translated, not too much pastry, juicy filling, tasty meat and no soggy bottoms or leakages.
I chose the pork rib eye, served with potato and onion gratin, Crabtree cheese and cornichons. It was between this and the burger but as Hope and I agreed, you don’t often see pork rib eye on a menu, plus, the burger is always available. Sold. I like a beef rib eye and that is my supper of choice (alongside nice glass of bold red) so I was looking forward to trying the pork version. It didn’t disappoint, cooked well (not dry like some pork can be served) with the marbling crisped and melt in the mouth. As was the gratin, love a good gratin. Creamy and naughty and just what was needed this cold evening.
Junior chose the fish goujons, chips and garden peas, devoured alongside the running commentary of all the goings on as people came and went.
Now, it would have been rude not to try the puddings especially as Junior had her eye on the brownie with chocolate sauce. Husband, after announcing more good pie notes, was won over by the cheese and biscuits; Belton Farm Red Fox Smoked Red Leicester from Whitchurch, Tarporley Blue, and Anne Clayton’s Crabtree (Malpas) artisan biscuits, chutney, celery and grapes. Have I missed anything? For me I was very tempted by the Apple tarte tatin sharing dish, but seeing as I had lost Husband to the cheese, I tried the largest slice of sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and Cheshire Farm honeycomb ice-cream. Sweet and sticky complemented by the creamy ice-cream but it did defeat me.
So, back to our checklist; good food? Absolutely. It was great to see local producers celebrated plus there was a good range of options making it a regular option.
Good atmosphere? Lively bar area with a complete mix of across the community, and the restaurant really filled up with a buzz as the evening wore on.
Varied menu? There was something on the menu for all our fussy friends and relatives, so yes that one’s a tick.
Lack of pretence? The food wasn’t pretending to be something that it wasn’t and neither were the staff.
Friendly staff? Definitely. Hope looked after us with a friendly manner, answering the whole range of questions thrown at her with a smile, as well as being clearly very knowledgable about the dishes and pub.
For us, The Lion offered what a good local pub should (but so often does not) offer; it is more than just about the food (which was excellent and we will be back) but hospitality and atmosphere. See you soon for that burger… and tarte tatin… and…

